Capri is a magical place. The 80 minute ferry trip from Amalfi provided us with a dose of Vitamin D (30c and cloudless skies) and set the scene for an amazing day out. We sailed past Priano, Positano, the Gallo Islands (where you can rent out the island for €1000 per night) and the tip of the Sorrentine Peninsula before heading across a lumpy stretch of sea to Capri. Sadly the Bloue Grotto (Grotto Azzuro) was closed due to the swell and wind in that quarter or the island. After landing we headed for the fernicolare (cable car) and made our way to Capri Town, a setting more akin to New York, London or Paris than an island off Italy, with designer boutiques, chic restaurants, souvenir shops and more fake tan (and wrinkles) than I have seen in years! Luckily there were not too many cruise ships in town as it was midweek, and the number of day-trippers still light when we arrived. We ambled around for an hour or so before catching a bright orange half-loaf* to Anacapri for lunch and sandal shopping.
We visited Villa San Michele too, admiring the views of Vesuvius from the manicured gardens, before heading into Anacapri for a gelato, and catching a cab to the port for our return to Amalfi.
Today marked our 3rd anniversary of our engagement and my wifes birthday, so we enjoyed a romantic dinner and savoured some more Italian beer and bubbly (not at the same time…)
* a half-loaf is our descriptive term for the buses that look like a half-loaf of bread on wheels, holding only a handful of passengers (10 seated and a few standing)
Leisure Time
Villa Cimbrone serves up the best view of the Amalfi Coast, with uninterrupted views in both directions for miles and miles. This is a sight not to be missed. The clouds swirled around us as we made our way up the hill in the SITA bus, before lifting to create an atmosphere to remember, and then clearing away totally leaving us perfect views of lemon orchards and hill towns dotted along the cliffs.
We had lunch in the piazza, Piadina and this time a Macchiato as well. The coffee in Italy was superb - not one cup was below par. Oh I wish that London cafes would pull their socks up and learn a thing or two from the Italian Barista’s.
Leisure Time
Positano didn’t rate highly as a destination for us. Full of ‘nana-wear’ shops and expensive restaurants, this is the preserve of the pretentious.
We caught the morning ferry to Positano, expecting to spend the day there (it gets great write-ups in the guides) as it looks great from the seat. However, there is only 1 main street to see and the same souvenirs being sold as found on the rest of the Amalfi Coast. We took the 1240 ferry back to Amalfi and spent the afternoon wandering it’s attractive streets, before making our way back to Atrani.
My suggestion to anyone considering travelling to Positano - avoid it, go to Ravello or one of the hill-towns instead - theres nothing much of interest in Positano…
Leisure Time
Seafood lovers will adore the Amalfi Coast, where you can buy a slice (actually the whole pizza) of heaven for under €7. The seafood pizza at Le Arcate (the Pizzeria in Atrani) had the perfect remedy for a long day lounging around or walking your tootsies off, whatever tickled your fancy - a seafood pizza and a cold Peroni. I’d been mixing Peroni for Nastro Azzuro and still have not decided which I prefer more as a beer. Both are drinkable and go with pretty much anything from bar snacks, to bruschetta, to Tagliatelle e Gamberi (Pasta and Shrimps).
Our adopted bar was Bar Birecto, situated in Piazza Umberto I, in Atrani, where we spent countless hours watching the locals interacting in a very Italian social way, congregating around the fountain as they have done so for hundreds of years, reminicing about old times and watching their Bambino’s grow up. Our barmen, Massimo and Luigi (along with Luigi’s papa - who spoke English but pretended not to have any voice at all) gave the best service imaginable, with a never ending line of bar snacks (all free) making their way to our table - although our tips covered these). We learned new Italian words and phrases and a little of the history and goings-on of the area during our stay. We felt like locals and I’m sure the tourists thought we were, as I was asked several times if I was Italian (because of my tan and goatee, which several locals were also sporting).
We’re thinking of ways in which we can work from a setting such as this and still manage to have enough free time to enjoy life…
We did not want to leave!
Leisure Time
Imagine sitting in a couchette in the late 50’s, watching the world go by out of your split window (great ventilation) and wandering along the carriages speaking to all and sundry … Now skip forward a few decades and you can still experience this, all for the paltry sum of €5.78 for 2 people for the 1 hour trip from Naples to Salerno. Train and coach travel in Italy are stupendously inexpensive, with the fare from Amalfi to Naples on our last day costing only €3.20 as well (a 2+ hour coach trip).
From Salerno we boarded the honking SITA Bus to Amalfi, disembarking at Atrani, literally minutes walking from Amalfi, to stay in our little slice of paradise. After a quick bit of negotiation we settled in to our upgraded room (with a private bathroom) and headed for the piazza to have a local brew (Peroni and Nastra Azzuro are the favoured beverages). I’ll expand more on this in my next blog.
Leisure Time
SNAV Campagnia runs a successful (and essential) ferry service, covering southern Italy, Sicily, Corsica and the Brindisi to Greece routes also. Our hotel overlooked the main ferry port in Naples, and the view from our 6th floor balcony (the Vesuvius View) was probably the best in town. We spent a few hours tasting local wines and eating alfresco, observing the goings-on - the loading and unloading of these super-ferry’s. Our first thought each morning was to draw the blinds and see who’d arrived in port overnight. We awoke to a different vista on both mornings.
Vesuvius was magnificent, towering high above Naples and the Sorrentine Coast, an imposing presence.
We had the pleasure of a visit to Pompeii and Herculaneum (known locally as Ercolano), where we wandered throught the ancient and somewhat well preserved ruins of these ancient cities. I’d just finished reading Robert Harris’s book Pompeii, and although a work of fiction based upon fact it was an amazing experience to visualise the scenes narrated in the riveting book. We used local transport where possible, and we’re glad we hadn’t rented a car. Napoli drivers are suicidal maniacs, and I am convinced there are no road rules. Buses, Trams, Cars, Mopeds, Trucks and pretty much anything with wheels and a horn shares the same road (often travelling in different directions in a single lane). We witnessed countless dozens of near misses, yet the local drivers seemed fairly cool (road rage isn’t an issue). Tourists beware - Don’t drive in Naples!
Pics of Pompeii and Ercolano to come.
Leisure Time
We’d spotted from the train a new airbridge to gates 100+ at Gatwick North Terminal and little did we know we’d unwittingly be walking across it shortly afterwards. We checked in (in plenty of time), had breakfast and then proceeded to the gate. Only we were heading to Naples, not Nantes - the departure gate we found ourselves at! So, after legging it back across the bridge (not stopping to count the number of stairs) we made a beeline for the correct gate (in the mian part of the terminal), sauntered onto the plane and settled in to our seats for a comfy 2 hour 10 minute flight.
Leisure Time
The latter half of my day was filled with aromas of freshly brewing coffee, and accompaniments usually found in Cafe’s. I was at the Caffe Culture 2006 show - the first event of its kind in the UK, and I hope the start of many years to come.
I’ve fallen in love with a traditional lever machine that I would dearly love to get my hands on, but at over £2200+VAT may have to wait a wee while.
Sadly we didn’t have enough time to attend any of the seminars on offer, but I was already reaching information (and sensory) overload.
We tried some great fruit drinks that are on the market and spoke to several key suppliers about a venture I would like to embark on in the latter half of 2006 or early 2007, learning that what I propose to do is extremely viable thanks to new technology in this area, and using methods I had not previously thought about (or imagined existed). I think I’ll spend time pondering this in Italy, whilst sipping on my Macchiato, perched high above the water in Amalfi… This afternoon was a great precursor for what lies ahead, culinary delights and pizzas at the home of Pizza - Napoli.
There are just so many things that make me go ‘wow’ at present - I really need to define which has the strongest pull and follow my nose.
Inzvestor
Easily one of the best gardening shows I have ever been to, with a definite focus on landscape design vs implements for use within a garden that all the other shows seem to focus on.
The New Zealand Garden was a favourite of mine, but hats off to our Trans-Tasman neighbours - the Aussies, who put on a stunning display with their sunken garden with a terrific stone wall, built in fire place and resident Aborigine playing the didgeridoo.
There was plenty to keep the eyes amused, and I put my photography skills to good use in the pavillion as well.
We took nearly 200 photos today and all but 1 turned out, so not a bad result.
High point - being at Chelsea
Low point - the 1 3/4 hour queue to view Chris Beardshaw’s Wormcast garden. Although Chris was obliging with his autograph for my wife.
Wishes for future shows - Lower the price of food a little. Paying £35 for an entry ticket then £6+ for a sandwich and drink is a bit on the nose
I’d recommend anyone thinking about attending in the future becomes an RHS Member, giving you access to member only days. I’d hate to be there on Public day - the queues and chaos would drive me to drink!
Inzvestor
Tomorrow we’re off to our first Chelsea, and along with 15000 others will ooh and aah around the show, snapping pics and marvelling at the creations by some of the worlds leading designers.
At £35 per ticket there’s a vast sum to made in this game - I wouldn’t mind a slice of that! - especially over 5 days
Time permitting there may be a few snaps online this time tomorrow night.
Inzvestor